Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Chilin' en Chile

Hola!

OK, I am extremely behind on my blog entries, so here it goes!  Dan and I spent 7 days in Chile... awesome but also unfortunate because we could have easily spent another three weeks getting to know the entire 7833 miles of coastline of this beautiful and diverse country.  

Our first day was spent mostly in buses, planes, and taxis... but probably the most memorable day of the trip.  We left Bariloche, Argentina, by bus at 7:30 am, which was scheduled to arrive in Osorno, Chile at around 12:30 pm, plenty of time to make our 2pm flight from Osorno to Santiago... so we thought.  After about 30 min of traveling by bus, the bus pulled off the road for about 30 min. We didn't realize until later that it was because some woman had missed the bus, called the driver and asked to wait for her while she hired a taxi to our stopped bus. Very aggrivating.  Next we get to the Argentine border control station where we disembarked, and had our passports stamped and bags sniffed by drug dogs.  This took a while but not nearly as long as the time we had to spend at the Chilean boarder control station.  We first had to wait for two large buses in front of us (probably because we were 30 min late because of the late tourist) to clear the border crossing, then it was our turn.  Sixty passengers waiting for one Chilean official to check, register, and stamp our passports.  At this time it was already about 1:30 pm and we were 100% sure we were going to miss our flight until someone told us that we gain an hour in Chile.  Even so, we were cutting it dangerously close. We talked to the bus driver and he said that we would make our flight... but looked a little worried.  Right before we were about to get back on the road, he told us to grab our bags and get on the bus behind us, which was scheduled to arrive at the Osorno airport before his bus.  Either way, we had 1.5 hours to board our flight, and we were still about 1.5 hours away.  So, already convinced that we would miss the flight, jumped on  board.  At 1:52, the bus pulled to the side of the road, told us to get off and grab our bags.  We were confused because we were in the middle of a field with nowhere close to anything that resembled an airport.  Then the driver pointed to a small building in the distance and said it was about 700 meters "over there." So, backpacks on, we took off running.  By the time we arrived at the only building "over there," were completely out of breath.  There wasn't anyone at the check-in counter but we saw someone in an airline uniform.  The only thing I could get out was "Santiago!" Casually she told us, "sure, you just need to check in," and very slowly started checking us in. I was freaking out a bit, wondering why she wasn't moving faster and asking her if our bags would make it on the plane.  It wasn't until we received the boarding passes when we realized that the flight was delayed 20 min.  Everything after that was like a dream, still wondering how it was possible that we made the flight that we had already given up on.  All I can say is that we had a very nice and smooth flight to Santiago, and made it to our comfy hostel before sundown!



The next two and a half days were spent in Santiago where we did loads of touristy things: hop-on hop-off bus; steep cable car ride up to the Statue of the Virgin (their Statue of Liberty); ate lots of seafood in the trendy neighborhood of Bella Vista, where they always have nightly live entertainment, and lots of wandering around!  One night at a random bar called "Harvard," I ran into a friend from college who had recently taken a job in Santiago - such a small world!  We ended up hanging out with him and his buddy for the rest of the night, sharing beers and tales of our travels.






On day four, five, and six we rented a car to drive ourselves to the coast.  The first two days were spent in Valparaiso, a historical port city directly to the west of Santiago.  Valparaiso is a precious little town with brightly painted buildings built on top of one another, dangling off hillsides.  Every winding alley was a picture perfect post card, full of color, hills and pacific ocean.  Some areas were so steep that many used telefericos (gondalas) to get to and from home.  Valparaiso has a huge artist community and many are hired to grafity/paint murals on their homes.  For me, this town was a good mix between San Francisco and Chinque Terra (in Italy). 




We spent most of our time wandering and getting lost in the windy and steep neighborhoods, took a free walking tour of the historic sites, visited the house of the late Chilean author, Pablo Neruda, and ate lots of fish.  







The next day and a half was spent driving north of Valpariso and getting to know a few coastal towns.  My favorite was Horcón, an old fishing village full of colorful buildings an markets, pelicans, and hard-working fishermen.  There the fishermen still do things the old-fashioned way, hauling their small fishing boats to the shore by horse.  Everytime a new boat is drug to shore, a crowd of locals hovers around to check out the fruits.  Since it was a fall, mid-week day, Dan and I were the only two tourists around... kinda fun!  







We ended up staying in Zapallar, a resorty-coastal town which looks very similar to an under-developed Carmel or Monterey.  Zapallar  was also completely empty of tourists which made for a fun day at the beach.  For the most part, we just took it easy - watched the sun set, then watched a futbol game with the locals at a rustic tavern (where they serve a mean ceviche!).







The next day we drove around a few more sleepy-coastal towns before making our way back to Santiago for a final evening in Chile before heading off to Ecuador.  

All in all, Chile is a beautiful country that looks a lot like California, especially the coast. We would have loved to have traveled further north to the Atacama Desert or explored the southern Patagonia, but you can only do so much in a week!  Guess that just means that we'll have to return someday... :)

OK, that's all I got!  Next up is Ecuador!

Besos,

Kristen

Monday, May 28, 2012

¡Bellisima Bariloche!

OK, I will try to keep this a quick one since I am sooooo behind on my updates!

Dan and I headed a bit further South along the Andean chain to Bariloche, a small, lakeside city in the Argentine Lake District.  Here we spent 7 lovely nights with a local host family while taking spanish classes during the days at La Montaña Spanish School.  We knew that early May wouldn´t be an ideal time to visit, so were somewhat prepared for the cool and variable fall climate.


Bariloche
Bariloche and the Argentine Lake District is best known for its trekking during the summer, world-class ski in the winter, and artisanal chocolate confectioners year-round.  Let's just say that we had our fair-share of chocolate. :)  Another thing to note about this pretty little, lakeside city is that it has a large Dutch, Swiss, and German influence from it's early European settlers... all looking for a place that looked like home!  You can catch the similarities in their artisanal cervezas (you should know that this means BEER!), chocolate, arquitectura, and mountainous scenery.


¡Mas Clases!
We signed ourselves up for 20 hours of classes this week... which sounds like alot for a couple of gringo tourists but it was exactly what we needed!  Our teachers were awesome and more than anything really helped us improve our conversational skills. Lucky for us, school was closed on Tuesday for the Argentine Labor Day so we had a full day to tour around and do a bit of hiking.




¡La Naturaleza!
When we weren't in class you'd find us trekking around las montañas, checking out las vistas (the views) of the glacier-carved lakes and surrounding andean peaks.  The cool and sometimes wet fall climate wasn´t ideal from a comfort standpoint, but the turning leaves made for beautiful scenery.  Depending on location, altitude and oxygen levels, some trees varied from a fierce red to a lush green.  Again, words just don´t do it justice... check out the photos below!










¡Nuestra Familia y Amigos!
We were lucky to receive room and board with such lovely people.  In our house lived Kuki, Roberto, their son Diego, Diego's son, Tomas, y Fahad (another foreign student earning his masters in aerospace engineering in Bariloche). We also became friends with Carolyn, a sweet Dutch backpacker at our Spanish school. 




Okey-doke, time for me to get on with my day! Stay tuned for my Chilean adventuras next!

Los Malbecs de Mendoza

Hola chicos!

I'm back with more updates from our travels!  After visiting the beautiful waterfalls in Iguazu, Dan and I jetted over to Mendoza, Argentina, home of the world-famous malbecs (in case you aren't a wine-o, malbec is a varietal of wine).  We spent five nights during late April in Mendoza, a large sprawling and historic capital city, just about 20 minutes from some of the best malbec wine makers in the world.  

April in this part of the southern-hemishere means turning leaves in the vineyards... drop in the impressive Andes Mountains in the background and you've got a pretty nice setting to taste a little vino!  

During our five night stay, I don't know how many times we were told how fortunate this valley is to receive 355 days of sun per year... I can tell you, however, that we experienced about 3 of the 10 days sin sol (without sun)!  It was cold and a bit wet, but we still managed to enjoy ourselves.  Lucky for us, our two sunny days were spent en las bodegas (in the vineyards). We had hoped to do a bit of Andean hiking while in Mendoza, but were more or less limited to drizzly, urban walks.   



Rainy afternoon... Why not go to the movies? We watched Las Piratas (The Pirates) en español :)

On our first full day, we hired a cab to take us out to Tapiz winery for a bit of wine tasting.  Before leaving the states, Federico, an Argentine-American friend of mine, told Dan and I that if we make it to Mendoza, we should contact his Aunt Carolina about arranging a tour of Tapiz, where she works in the events and publicity.  After a horse and carriage led tour through the vines, and several small glasses of wine, Carolina offered to drive us home and give us a brief tour of the sites along the way!

Our next day of wine tasting was a luxurious and completely custom tour organized by Javier, our private guide and trusty driver.  He called ahead of time to reserve us intimate wine tastings and tours at four highly-respected wineries.  The first was private tour and tasting at a small, family-owned and operated winery named San Diego.   







Our second stop was a tour at Mendel, where world-renowned wine-maker, Roberto de la Mota, makes his wine. 





Next was Ruca Malen, where instead of a classic tour and tasting, we sat down for a gourmet, seven course, wine-paired meal... wow!  





Our fourth and final tour was at Carinae, owned by a sweet French-Argentine couple.  Our grand wine tasting adventure left us with a wealth of knowledge about Mendocino wines, four bottles of malbec... and a little tipsy!  Thank you Javier for safely touring us around in your wine-mobile!




We rented a car and attempted an Andean adventure on our last day, but the low cloud cover inhibited the spectacular scenery we had heard so much about... :( Even so, we still had a fun time getting outside the city and driving through the mountains. 

That's it for now!  Next stop is a week in Bariloche, in the Argentine Lake District!